Mustard comes in several textures, each with its own character. Two versions stand out in French cuisine: sifted mustard, known for its silky, homogeneous texture, and old-fashioned mustard, recognizable by its visible seeds. Though both share the same base ingredients, they deliver distinct tasting experiences and each find their place on the table. Every version has its own qualities, strengths, and best uses.
The sifted mustard
How it's made
Sifted mustard follows a meticulous production process that gives it its signature texture. The mustard seeds — mainly brown seeds (Brassica juncea), sometimes supplemented with black seeds (Brassica nigra, now a minor addition) — are first ground into a fine powder. This powder is then blended with vinegar, white wine, water, and various seasonings depending on the recipe. The crucial sifting step comes next: the resulting paste passes through very fine sieves that catch any coarse particle, guaranteeing a perfectly smooth texture. This step is as old as it is regulated — sifting mustard has been governed by French regulation since 1937 — and is used in both artisanal and industrial production alike, where it delivers product consistency and reliable shelf life.
Characteristics
Texture: exceptionally smooth and creamy, with no grain at all. Aromatic strength: finely grinding the seeds releases more allyl isothiocyanate, the compound behind mustard's characteristic bite. That bite comes from an enzymatic reaction: myrosinase converts sinigrin, found in brown and black seeds, into allyl isothiocyanate — a volatile compound that "hits the nose" — and the finer the grind, the more pronounced it is. Appearance: a uniform bright yellow to light beige color. Versatility: sifted mustard pairs well with countless preparations, from vinaigrettes to warm sauces. At Pommery®, this smooth texture is embodied by Moutarde de Dijon Pommery®, also known as Moutarde du Lion Pommery®.
Old-fashioned mustard
Traditional preparation method
Heir to centuries-old know-how, old-fashioned mustard stands out for its more rustic production process. The mustard seeds are coarsely crushed rather than ground into a fine powder. This method preserves part of the seeds, which remain partially whole. The mixture is then combined with vinegar, white wine, and various seasonings. The maceration that follows lets the flavors develop fully while keeping the characteristic grainy texture.
Distinctive features
A unique texture: the partially crushed seeds create a grainy mustard that gives a little "crunch" with each bite. A complex aromatic profile: because so many seed fragments remain whole, the bite is released more gradually — often perceived as milder than sifted mustard, but the flavors linger longer on the palate. Culinary versatility: sauces for meat, rustic vinaigrettes, marinades, traditional dishes such as rabbit with mustard. Discover the collection of ancient mustards Pommery®.
This is the grainy tradition carried on by Moutarde de Meaux® Pommery®, packed in its distinctive stoneware pot. This style of mustard has seen renewed interest in recent years, driven by a broader return to authentic, traditional products — a trend borne out by its title of World's Best Mustard in the whole grain category, awarded in 2019 at the World-Wide Mustard Competition, which the house has entered every year since 1996.
Comparison and uses
Culinary applications
Sifted mustard excels in preparations that call for a smooth texture: whisked vinaigrettes, emulsified sauces, fine marinades. Old-fashioned mustard shines in slow-cooked dishes, rustic sauces for grilled meats, and textured vinaigrettes.
Practical considerations and preferences
Sifted mustard is easier to use and measure, its even texture lending itself well to emulsified preparations. Old-fashioned mustard sometimes calls for adjusting quantities, since its seeds release their bite more gradually. Discover the Pommery® collection of sifted mustards.
As for storage, Moutarde de Meaux® Pommery® in its stoneware pot keeps for 18 months in a cool, dry place and does not need refrigeration before opening.
Current trends: sifted mustard remains a go-to for everyday use, while old-fashioned mustard is gaining popularity among food lovers and in fine dining.
Far from competing with one another, these two styles of mustard complement each other in modern cooking. Sifted mustard wins people over with its versatility and ease of use; old-fashioned mustard brings a touch of authenticity and a tasting complexity prized by connoisseurs. This diversity enriches our culinary heritage and gives cooks — home and professional alike — a wider palette of flavor to work with.
